Mano Rota catalan restaurant in Barcelona
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Pasa Tapas
Mano Rota – Barcelona
Mano Rota – Barcelona
Mano Rota – Barcelona
Mano Rota – Barcelona
Mano Rota – Barcelona
Mano Rota – Barcelona
“Mano rota” means “broken hand” in Spanish. It comes from an old saying used to describe someone with an exceptionally high level of skill — the perfect name for this little hub of culinary creativity.
Owners and head chefs Bernat Bermudo (Catalan) and Oswaldo Brito (Venezuelan) met while training at the legendary Hoffman culinary school in Barcelona, before perfecting their craft at some of the world’s finest restaurants.
This period of development was immensely important for both chefs and introduced them to a world of new flavours that the duo combined in sensational style when they teamed up to open their restaurant in the Poble Sec area, Mano Rota.
“We have so many influences, from Peru, Venezuela, Japan, Thailand, Spain” Bermudo says. But although it would be easy to simply label their cuisine as ‘fusion’, these creative chefs refuse to be pigeonholed into one style.
A lot of what they do is Spanish market cuisine, with a great deal of emphasis placed on quality seasonal produce, but the menu features all sorts of international influences: calamari, a Spanish staple, is used to concoct a zingy ceviche with yellow ají peppers (18€), and aubergine, a classic Catalan ingredient, is reimagined with a rich Thai pork sauce (16€).
But for a truly exciting dining experience and a true taste of what these two restless chefs can do, order the set tasting menu (60€). Inspired by whatever is freshest at the market, the it changes with the seasons and rarely remains static long enough to be written down — simply let the staff know if there’s anything you don’t or can’t eat and the chefs will surprise you.
Expect creative twists on Spanish classics like Basque-style bacalao ‘kokotxas’ and tuna ‘marmitako’ with peppers and avocado, and more exotic flavours such as ‘aguachile de mejillones’ (mussels drizzled in a spicy salsa of lime, coriander and chilli peppers).
Desserts (7€) include dulce delights like chocolate ice-cream with biscuit crumble and orange drizzle, and reconstructed lemon pie. Wine lovers can choose from a wide variety of boutique bodegas from Catalunya and the rest of Spain — bottles start at around 25€.
Conclusion: Whether you’re looking for somewhere special to celebrate an important occasion or are simply in need of a gastronomical adventure without all the fuss that goes along with traditional fine dining restaurants, this is the place to do it.
Review by Ben Holbrook / November 2016
www.driftwoodjournals.com
Mano Rota
Carrer de la Creu dels Molers, 4,
08004
Barcelona,
Spain
Area:
Poble Sec
Email:
infoSPAMFILTER@manorota.
com
Website:
Mano Rota – Barcelona
Opening hours:
Mon – Fri 13.00 – 15.30 & 20.30 – 23.30. Sat 19.30 – 24.00
Prices:
30€ / Tasting menu at 60€.
Phone:
+34 93 164 80 41
Metro/Bus:
Poble Sec
Barcelona metro map
Mano Rota | Restaurants in El Poble-sec, Barcelona
- © Maria Dias
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Time Out says
5 out of 5 stars
‘It’s more than just a bar for drinking, or a bar counter to sit at,’ says Oswaldo Brito.
‘Restaurant with bar’ is how they define it: I like the concept. The bar as a destination, not an accessory. That bar counter, behind which Bernat Bermudo works, is the heart of Mano Rota. It’s at the back, standing guard over the private room and the kitchen door.
Is it possible to know when a dish really matters? Naturally. There’s always one that stands out above the rest, that you find yourself thinking about days after you devoured it. This happened to me with the Thai suquet. Suquet – the classic Catalan fisherman’s dish – but Thai? Just reading it made my head spin. Two serving dishes – one with coconut milk, peanuts, lime and green curry, and the other a paella pan with a gift wrapped in Carta Fata paper: sea bass with a sofregit sauce, the foundation of Mediterranean Catalan cuisine. Unwrap it, and it releases delicious aromas. Each mouthful of fish and sofregit is to be dipped in the white Thai sauce. Disparate traditions that work together. Mano Rota is that Thai suquet.
Close to home and far away. Brito is Venezuelan. Bermudo is Catalan. They worked together in Lima and bring common sense and knowledge to fusion.
Mano Rota has two bars, one at the entrance, for aperitifs and cocktails, and one at the back, with tables between them. Seated in front of the two chefs, I appreciate the carpentry, which uses raw materials from Holland. Good interior design that doesn’t overwhelm. And a good wine list. I start with a red, Brutal from Les Gavarres, and move on to a smooth Mencia from Algueira.
The yucca and scamorza cheese croquettes could use a little more citric mayonnaise to lighten the texture. The tracciatella burrata with a hazelnut praline and fried aubergines is a risky but successful combination, although the vegetables lose out somewhat. Top marks for the corball ceviche – perfectly cut – with yellow chilli. An impressive score for the tuna with a jus of lomo saltado (a Peruvian touch) – a sauce that would work with almost anything. Then another knockout dish: thin strips of raw Iberian pork fillet, cooked on the spot in hot dashi.
The jowl bacon with dried apricots, miso and mustard is a bravura performance. I move on to the desserts, white chocolate and Greek yoghurt with red fruits. Less convincing, due to an excess of sugar, was the Irish coffee, although the coffee itself is exceptional, from Jordi Mestre at Nomad coffee.
The Avinguda del Paral·lel area, under its reigning monarch Albert Adrià, is on fire. The show is no longer at its theatres, but its restaurants.
Written by Pau Arenós
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